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I found some rare and obscure words, while looking back at the history of hats and headdresses. Just finished reading the professor and the madman (by Simon Winchester, HarperCollins 1998) about the development of the Oxford English Dictionary, I thought it would be fun to explore the definitions and etymology of some of these ancient terms, most of which have but disappeared from modern use. [I'll break this project into three or four parts, so stay tuned.]

To qualify for inclusion then the word must appear with a squiggly red line on the check of Microsoft Word spell "of the tool. So here goes:
[Note: As a move to the third part of this project, the conditions become less lost in antiquity. I've included a few words, though seldom used today was presented "Spell check".]

Poke Bonnet

Now hist.

1. A projection-brimmed hat, especially in fashion. in the 19th century.
1801 C. Dibdin Song Joy Smith and Metro (1807) 62, I will forge staves lyrics please cut as a new vision-fashion'd, or as long as hats hare. 1820 F. Hermit in XCII MACDONOGH V. London. 35 Another annoyance on the street is his poke-bonnet ladies, who sometimes lay your eyes with these pent-house projections. 1837 E. Bulwer-Lytton's Ernest Maltravers II. IV. VI. 67 In some middle-aged ladies .. .. Straw Hats hare. 1858 IX RS Surtees Ask mom, [A] .. painted lady in one of the old poke bonnets of previous days. 1884 Cent. MAG. 28 14 Eight or nine men, women and children, in the poke-hats and high collar coats of 1839. 1913 W. Cather's O Pioneers! II 12 This city boy was dressed in what was then called the "Kate Greenaway as" carmine .. hat, gave him the appearance of a quaint little woman. 1984 P. Allen antique galleries Cumbria (BNC) married 18 women wore a cap, a blue linen apron .., Neb clogs shaped buckled shoes for better wear, a poke bonnet and wear of the outer layer.

2. spec. A hood of this type traditionally used by women members of the Religious Society of Friends (Quakers), the Salvation Army, etc. Therefore, a user of this type of hood.
1848 JR BARTLETT Dict. Americanisms sv, Poke-Bonnet, a long hood, straight, widely used by Quakers and Methodists. 1862 H. Marryat a year in Sweden II. LVI. 264 dined at a country house .., ownership of the Anabaptists, a sect more numerous in Gotland. There is no question of women killed by their appearance and put black hats. 1877 Sat Rev. May 12 577 / 2, Croydon, Dorking, and other favorite places of Friends, the .. brimmed hats for men, and nearly poke-bonnets for women, can still be seen. Gaz 1899 of St. James. 17 of agosto 11 / 2 not met by the Church .. or any other spiritual organization, except possibly the 'hats meter "on street corners. AUTOBIOGRA 1902 E. BANKS. Official Girl 107 poke bonnet and dark blue dress that I thought would not arrive until I had spent several days investigating what was the best way to join the Army. 1945 Musical Q. 31 276 Amish women are easily identified by their hats poke, shawls, and a total absence of ornament in their attire. 2000 Sunday Herald (Glasgow) (Nexis) 14 May 36 A Pennsylvania Amish in a poke hat goes next, happy as a bug.

Gibus

f. Gibus first manufacturer name.]

An opera or crush hat. Also hat hat.
1848 THACKERAY Bk. Snobs XVIII, with his top hat top hat and glass bomblets. a1854 E. Forbes lire. Viii Papers. (1855) 214 No man in a hat never ordered for private or public fear. 1888 Daily Tel. April 28 5 / 2 fold or crush hat Gibus.

[Note from Belinsky: Today a Gibus is more commonly known as "Top Hat collapsible".]

Riding Casquette

[FR.; Fem. of cap, dim. of CASQUE helmet.]

A headdress like a helmet.
1840 LS COSTELLO Summ. between Bocages II. 206 his long tresses were confined by an eastern casquette future.

[a. Casque F., AD. Sp Town within the meaning of the same: see CASK n.]

1. A piece of armor to cover his head, a helmet. A term applied very loosely to all kinds of military chief of the pieces, and now only historical, poetical, or foreign. Previously written barrel.
1580-1649 [see CASK n. 4]. 1696 PHILLIPS, Casque, a helmet. 1714 GAY Trivia III. 363 The underarm perspiration firefighter twisted leather helmet head defends vent'rous. 1791 COWPER Iliad III. 375 They shook in a bronze helmet. 1842 TENNYSON Galahad 1 My good blade size helmets men. 1877 Daily News December 24 5 / 4 The miter-like helmets Pauloff Guard regiment.

Manier bandeau

[FR.: DE. Bandel, dim. the shape of the band bande n.2, cf. BANDORE2.]

a. A narrow band or fillet worn by women to bind their hair, or as part of a headdress. b. A blindfold.
1706 T. Betterton loving widow I. 4 The most beautiful hair, the curls beautiful'st not become the front, as well as a Bando did. c1790 F. BURNEY Diary (1842) I. 98 (D.) That .. bandeau was used by every woman in court. a1847 MRS. Lady of Sherwood Manor III. XXI. 277 Just make up this bandeau for my hair. ? 1858 C. MATHEWS Autobiog. (1879) I, in a night-cap-lace bandeau with blue sky. 1861 GEN. P. Audi H. Thompson III. CLXI. 175 The Minister of Finance, as Paul, said Luis de la fortune, believes that under your bandeau. 1908 [see BARRETTE 2]. 1959 Sunday Times, April 5 22 / 5 bandeau As small that they can be and still be called a hat, a bow and are trapped in a cage veil.

c. A strip of velvet or other material generally in a circular which is sewn into the bottom of the cup for a hat that is too big for his head.
1908 Official Reports. January 29 4 / 7 With the right kind of 'Bandeau' .. not necessary to use a pin at all.

Straw Sennit

Naut.
[var. of SINNET.]

a. = SINNET. b. (See quot. 1858.)
1769 FALCONER Dict. Marina (1789), Sennit. 1858 SIMMONDS Dict. Trade Sennit, .. plaited straw or palm leaves, etc., of which hats are made of grass. 1881 Training Table 92 These young gentlemen are .. Sennet making, the latter being the entertainment at par with tow.
attrib. and Comb. 1882 NARES Seamanship (ed. 6) 79 One eye sennit working in c1898 J. CHALMERS Life Lovett (1902) 146, the hawser sennit long stay on the deck had been approved on land to the Indians on the reef.

[Note from Belinsky: Today, a straw Sennit is more commonly known as "boat" or "skimmer" or "Sailor Straw".]

Montero

Now hist.
[<Spanish Montero Montero N., with altered termination, prob. after the previous loans of Spanish words in-ero-EER1.

In the methods, remodeled after the EER.]

1. A cover of a type formerly used in Spain for hunting, with a spherical crown (often fur-lined) flaps able to be ready to protect ears and neck. Hunting also.

Common Spec. in the 17th century.
1611 R. Cotgrave Dict. Sv Languages French and Eng Barbute a riding hood, a Montero, or closing bell, travelers to keep their faces and heads of frost bite and the weather beating. 1622 R. HAWKINS Observ. Voiage S. XIII Tues 28 On their heads a night-CAPP Weare, vpon a Montero, and a hat for that. a1642 W. BEDELL in T. Redevivus Abel Fuller (1651) 69 Another .. .. sent to Muntiro full of rich Sables. Tr motteux PA 1694. Rabelais weeks. IV. xxx. (1737) 124 waist as a mount-Cap. c1700 J. Fraser Chron. Fraser (1905) 164 .. The man shot an arrow at him, he entered the mountire cape of his coat hanging on his back. 1703 History of Clarendon. Rebellion II. IX. 516 [He] was taken in his journey, with a head Mountero. 1762 L. Tristram Shandy Sterne Life VI. XXIV.103 The Hunting .. scarlet, and mounted with all Furr, except [etc..] 1823 SCOTT Peveril III. XII. 298 A big hat that covered his head. Thornbury Househ GW in 1859. Words January 8 134 / 1 The black cup like the brim of his cap. 1984 J. NUNN Fashion in Costume 1200-1980 63 The Montero .. was occasionally carried outside the gates when traveling or hunting. Britannica Online 1999 (version 99.1), men [in colonial America] also wore the hat, which had a flap that could be rejected.

2. In prolonged use. Obs.
1820 W. Irving Sketch Bk. II. 382 The cedar bird, with its cover .. Monteiro some feathers.

Cadogan

[It is said by the name of the 1st Earl Cadogan (died 1726). See Littré, and N. and P. 7 Ser IV. 467, 492.]

A mode of knotting the hair behind the head.
c1780 B'NESS D'OBERKIRCH Govt. (1852) II. IX, the duchess of Bourbon had introduced at the court of Montbéliard .. [the form] of Cadogan, hitherto worn only by gentlemen.

Postilion Hat

Now chiefly hist.
[<Middle French, French Postillon person riding a horse post, postman, mailman (1560 in Middle French), who rides one horse in front of a coach (1680), small supplementary float a fishing line ( 1868), Basque postilion imitating a style coat (1869) and its probable etymology Postiglione Italian guide or precursor of mail, messenger, driver of a coaching job (although this is app. attested to by the first words in French and English: 1585) <post n.3 +-iglione POST, suffix (<-Igli-ILLA suffix +-one: see-OON suffix). Cf Postilion Spanish (1552), Portuguese Postilhão (1552), both problems. <Italiano (despite the chronological difficulties), and Postillion also German, postman, courier Postillon (1572, now obs. In this sense), (now hist.) Driver of a coaching job (1750 or earlier; <or Middle French and Italian).]

2. The person riding a post-horse post, one child (usually) a messenger, a messenger quickly. Also Fig. Now rare.
1616 J. Eng BULLOKAR Exhibitor, postman, post or express courier. 1645 J. Howell Epist. Ho-elianæ For RDR. sig. A3, The postilions wing'd can flie, From skie Anartic the Arctic. 1663 B. Gerbier counsel for builders of 8 drivers, speeding up the packet-mail to the Post Office. 1685 tr. B. Oracle courtiers Gracian 160 These are the drivers of life, that the rapid movement of time, add the speed of their own minds. Gaz de Londres 1708. No. 4464 / 6, the courier in Ghent has just arrived, with letters to Mr. de Caris. Harper 1858 Mag. April 593 / 2 a Mr. Atkinson left Moscow in early March, accompanied by a post-office post-boy, who had orders to accompany him to the border of Siberia. 1908 Official Reports. May 28 5 / 3 of the wife of the cook in the family was "postillion of love" between the princess and Koczain.

3. A person riding the (main) face visible (left) horse pulling a coach or car, esp. when a couple is only used and there is no coachman. Also in extended use: an outrider for a car. Now chiefly hist.

COMPOUNDS

C2. Applied to fashion styles or clothing of imitation of a postman, as postilion-back, postilion-belt, etc. See also the subject 5. Now rare.
1773 J. Minzier Let. June 12 in F. Mason John Norton & Sons (1968) 330, 6 Postillion Caps. Young in December 1872 English 651 / 2 a olive brown dress .. had a Basque bodice with a courier back. Peterson 1886 Mag. April 377 / 1 On the back, the jacket is put on postilion-braids. 1890 Cent. Dict., A Postilion-belt, a leather belt with big buckle, used by the ladies about 1860. 1904 Official Reports. January 2 8 / 4 The tabs postilion in the back of her blouse. 1942 E. FERBER VII trunk. 147 The thin layer of gray silk ottoman shoulder was overcome with narrow black French lace and back coachman made his smaller waist are still tinier.

Puggree

[a. Hind. pag a turban.]

1.A light turban or head used by the inhabitants of the Indian subcontinent.
1665 SIR T. Herbert Trav. (1677) 140 .. .. The people of the East as they wear turbans, Mandils, Dustars and Puggarees. 1696 J. OVINGTON Voy. Suratt Puggarie With a 314, or turbans on their heads. 1698 FRYER ACC. E. India and P. 93 A puckery green vest (or Turbat). 1845 Sir W. NAPIER Conq. SCINDA II. i. 224 The Mohameden Belooch always obeys the Puggree leading. 1893 W. Forbes-MITCHELL Remin. Gt. Mutiny 287 The latter wore voluminous thick puggries around the head. 1930 Aberdeen Press & Jrnl. April 22 5 / 2 No British officers and non-uniform, except for a distinctive type of pagri (touched). 1930 Punch October 1 392 / 2 Mr. Thompson should not let this bee to find a permanent home in pagri. 1974 "White B. MATHER 'dacoit 18 sowars pagris robes and straightened.

2. A scarf of thin muslin or a silk veil wound around the crown of a sun helmet or hat and falling behind like a shadow.
Dickens 1859 All Year July 30 332 / 1 A 'Puggery' is a long strip of white muslin which is bound around the hat and formed a great arc, with tails behind. 1866 Cornh. MAG. 741 A silk coat in December, a puggree, boots and white laces adorned the wealthy. 1885 Times February 20 6 / 1 officers and soldiers dressed in red serge tunics, helmets .. puggarees sun. 1901 B. Shaw three plays for Puritan., Captain Brassbound I. Take the helmet 215 and pagri sun, the neutral-tinted glasses, sneakers and white Spanish sand.

3. attrib., as puggree cloth.
1934 [see Exercise n. 5]. 1978 'Far MM KAYE' Pavilions VI. 98 .. She slept deeply bound to him by a length of turban pagri () of material that prevented him from falling.

Therefore pugg (a) A. Reed, wearing or using a puggree.
1881 MRS. C. Praed and IP Policy 13 brimmed hat puggareed. 1900 Daily News of August 1 3 / 1 A graceful wave of his green hat, slouch puggareed soft.

Cabriolet

[a. Cabriolet F., deriv. of capers, named for the proposal to delimit elastic.]

1. a. A light two-wheeled carriage pulled by a horse, with a large hood of wood or leather apron and a surplus to cover the knees and legs of the occupants. Hired in 1830 to the cabin, and in later times, applies to any vehicle known by that name. In addition, upper or free from a car. b. A motor car with fixed sides and a hinged lid.

2. A cap or hat in the form of a convertible.
1771 H. WALPOLE Let. 31 July (1904) 63, I have bespoken two cabriolets for her, instead of six, because I think very expensive. 1923 Daily Mail 22 June 11 Cabriolet hats are fashionable again … With a convertible should have tape streamers draped over one shoulder.

Marcel Wave

[<The name of Marcel Grateau François (1852-1936), French hairdresser who invented the method.]

Compounds I..

1. Marcel wave, a deep artificial wave in the hair produced by heated curling tongs, also Fig.
, 1895 N. & P. (1941) September 6, 129 / 1 (advt.) Experts in the latest wave of Marcel and Vienna. 1908 Smart Set septiembre 86 / 1 And when it comes to "his wave Marcelle is straight as a mackerel. 1909 'W. Roads HENRY 'destiny IV. 62 men, what did you think? Marcel was released as a wave in the surf at Coney. 1930 R. MACAULAY Staying with Relations XVI. 226 Marcel small waves lapped in white on the sides of the Eugenia while anchored in the port of San Jose. 1934 E. Mod Aspects Sitwell Poetry I. 11 Mr. Austin Dobson, Marcel and waves, the twisting, laughing at the horrors Triolets and other imitations of French forms. 1986 r. MARCO Long Weekend (1988) 121 His thinning gray hair was set in finger waves Marcel.

2. Marcel-Waver, the undulation, Marcel-waved adj.
Chambers 1923 Jrnl. September 568 / 1 She could be without becoming one of its exquisite * Marcel-waved hair. 1968 Times January 30 9 / 7 Your head is curly or Marcel-waved. 1974 Daily Tel. August 711 / 2 This drawing room comedy of 1931, has been lovingly resurrected .. with Wind-up gramophone, a Marcel-waved heroin and SNIP ~ jokes complement. 1989 Observer 12 February 36 / 4 Montana models, blocking Marcel occasional stiff hair greeted with tape or thread, like a game of Greek gods just returned from a week of success in the health farm.

1908 'W. Soft HENRY 'Grafter 62 A combination meat beater, shoe horn, * Marcel waver. 1925 Daily Tel. 13 May 20 / 5 (advt.) Experts Marcel Waver and manicures.

1925 Daily Tel. 13 May 20 / 5 (advt.) * Marcel water and shake. 1932 L. GOLDING Magnolia St. III. III. Were 508 teachers in the latest methods of permanent Marcel, water and finger waving. 1974 Observer 24 November 29 / 6 There's a lady in Wellington, New Zealand, who was still doing Marcel waving from the first round when I came back again. Hair 1990 Oct.-Nov. 10 / 1 On the basis of Marcel waving, a permanent technical called retro-wave creates this effect.

II. Use simple.

3. = Marcel Wave, sense 1.
HC Witwer Leather Pushers 1921 x. 268'll shoot a fight today that will put a permanent Marcel hair! 1926 Glasgow Herald, 25 September 9 it started to rain … Many beautiful Marcel was sacrificed to save a masterpiece of headgear. 1964 L. 285 Harlem Clarke Hairston waves in my hair done stringing … I.. Sonny called for an appointment, I had to have a marcel! 1979 W. Ironweed vi KENNEDY. 178 black hair brown, short, moved into a soft Marcel.

Psyche Knot

[a. Gr (In Ps L. Ch) breath, F. breathe, blow, (later) to cool, so that life (identified with or indicated by the breath), the vital principle in man and other living things, the source of all vital activities, rational or irrational the soul or spirit, unlike its material vehicle, body, or, sometimes considered as capable of persisting in a disembodied state after separation from the body by death.

In mythology, personified as in 1c. For Plato and other philosophers spread the Anima Mundi, designed to encourage the general scheme of the universe as the soul animates the individual organism. In St. Paul (developing a current Jewish distinction between Rua, spirit or breath, and nephesh, soul) used for the minor or merely natural life of man, shared with other animals, in contrast to the spirit or, viewed as a top item because the divine influence subsequent to regenerate the original constitution of human nature: see PSYCHIC a. 2, psychic 2. (For this and other developments in pre-Christian Judaism and the writings of NT, see RH Charles, Hist. Of the Doctrine of the Afterlife, 1899.)]

1. The soul, or spirit, unlike the body, mind.
1658 Sir T. Hydriot Browne. IV. 61 Why the psyche or soul of Tiresias is male. 1794 Sullivan View Nat II. 279 The two essential elements in the composition of all earthly things were by the ancient Greeks called hyle psyche, ie et Spiritus matter, soul and body. 1877 tr. Virchow at Tyndall Fragm. Sc (1879) II. XV. 407 If I explain attraction and repulsion of exposures in the mind as psychic phenomena, simply pull the Psyche by the window, and psyche remains a psyche. LEWES Psychol 1879 Study. 73 The majority of borrowers [old] independent thinkers not only a man of nature, but the mind of the organism, but invented a Psyche as the source of all mental phenomena. 1888 Princeton, New Rev. March 272 The psychology is the science of the psyche or soul. 1896 P. Tombs carved Gardner Hellas 24 The psyche, Homer, is not at all like the Christian soul, but a double shadow of the man, wanting both the strength and wisdom. EJ Dillon in 1905 Contemp. Rev. August 287 is difficult to realize the position and image of the psyche of Rozhdestvensky [the Russian admiral fired fleet in the North Sea].

b.The principle that animates the universe as a whole, the world soul or Anima Mundi.
Song H. 1647 Over Soul Note 138 / 2 This is the entrance of the psyche in the body of the VNIV, lighting and fog dead exciting. 1678 Cudworth Intell. Syst. I. IV. § 21. 388 This is the one taken by Plotinus to eternal Psyche, who actively produceth all things, in this lower world, according to the divine ideas. Ibid. § 23. 406 However, in other places .. often claimed that, above the moving car and a building ~ Psyche Nous permanent or intellect, which was duly Demiurge.

c. In the late Greek Mythol., Personified as the beloved of Eros (Love), and represented in art with butterfly wings, or like a butterfly, known in literature as the heroine of the story told in the ass Apuleius gold. Hence attrib. as meaning "as the Psyche" as in Psyche knot (of hair), Psyche-mold, the task of Psyche.
1876 GEO. ELIOT Dan. Der. LXI, mind Mirah mold frame, lay a fervent emotion as sometimes rashly supposed to require much of a Cleopatra. DIEHL SR 1888 two thousand words Psyche 170 knots, carry style hair in a coil projecting into the center of the back of the head. Kennedy SB 1895 Departure (USA), October 8 / 2 Do you think this knot suits the psyche of the special cut of my features? 1901 Westman. Gaz. May 28 2 / 4 After Psyche many tasks undone Fate-taxed now, hope that there is more to do. 1904 Ibid. November 30 4 / 2, I'm not sure I know what it is "a Psyche knot," which was what the lady with jet black hair was transformed. 1968 J. Couples Updike v. 404 Her hair was pinned into a knot of the psyche.

Fred Belinsky

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